Posted by CJ Rivard on Tue, Aug 10, 2010
As a writer, I love hyperbole. It grabs the reader's attention, making the point and then some – stretching the truth for good purpose. The title of this post is a great example. Sharky's Cantina may not be the Greatest Place to Eat in the Whole Wide World, but if it isn't, it's darn close. Seriously, given the choices out there, I think I'd just as soon eat at Sharky's as any other place. Why? I'm glad I asked.
First and second, it's funky and fun. Third, fourth, and fifth, the food is great, the selection wide, and the prices reasonable.
I first came to an awareness of Sharky's when there was just the Oak Bluffs location, a cozy little spot that they've occupied since 2003. It was great, but a bit crowded. (More hyperbole. Think: squeezing the New England Patriots defensive line into a Smart Car.) The place was consistently bursting at the seams with people stuffing their faces with tacos, chimichangas, and burritos, all the while washing them down with sangria and margaritas.
An added attraction, if the mob scene wasn't enough to draw you in, was the requirement to visit “The Shark Tank” next door if you had to (how shall I put this delicately?) deal with all those drinks you'd been downing. As a guy, there's something distinctly unsettling about doing my business in a facility called “The Shark Tank”.
Note that none of this kept me away. The pluses far outweighed the downsides. My family went there at every opportunity. Still, it was clear that they needed more space. In 2005, the much-needed larger Edgartown location opened. It can almost handle the crowds who continue to flock there. The outside seating under the lights helps a great deal in the good weather. (Yet another benefit: Sharky's is open year-round. No unrequited hankering for tacos in the dead of January!)
Truth be told, Mexican food would not be my first choice of cuisine. Much of it I can take or leave. That's OK. My family is heavily (no pun intended) into it and I like enough of it to appreciate the place. Just the awesome freshly-made chips and pico de gallo are enough to sate my appetite. I have two burrito-devotee daughters who swear by that selection. My wife considers the veggie tacos to be unsurpassed.
The funny thing is that I don't order Mexican from their menu anymore. Not because it's not good. It is! However, I've discovered the Sharky's Special Sauce Burger. I know it's not a burger joint, but this is one of the best burgers on the planet. Between the burger and the excellent fries, I rarely find a need to stray from that selection. Look, if I ate there thee times a week – and I might if I could – I'd mix in the tacos, fajitas, and quesadillas. Unfortunately, I only get there a few times a year. Thus, it's generally the burger for me.
If there's any room after the chips and pico de gallo, that is.
Image courtesy of roolrool.
Posted by Rick Conti on Wed, Jul 07, 2010
My family has been vacationing on Martha's Vineyard for so long, it seems as if we've done all there is to do and seen all there is to see. This summer we put that myth to rest.
For an island of only 87 square miles, the Vineyard is home to an amazing variety of landscapes, living spaces, and ecosystems. At my wife's suggestion, we went exploring via kayak one such area we had never set eyes on before: Long Point Wildlife Refuge.
Long Point is managed by The Trustees of Reservations. The Trustees manage dozens of spectacular properties all over Massachusetts. Long Point is one of several on the Vineyard. For a reasonable fee (especially for those who are members of the Trustees) we joined a kayak tour with several other people to explore this Undiscovered (to us) Country.
Our two hour voyage took place on Tisbury Great Pond, located on the south coast of the island. Our group was led by a young man named Guillermo. He was personable, knowledgeable, helpful, and more than patient with those of us who were kayak-challenged.
The only negative aspect of the trip turned out to be a benefit of sorts. Our entire tour took place under the cloak of a fog that made anything more than fifty feet away look otherworldly and those over one hundred feet mere objects of our imagination. It was a real impetus to stay as close as possible to Guillermo's lead kayak.
Though we could not see the sights that were distant in that near dream world, we could see the birds and sea life that were nearby, and there was plenty of that. We also learned a lot about the earliest native inhabitants of the area. The blessing of the fog was that we were protected from a hot sun that we knew was somewhere beyond the misty shroud. The exertion of paddling kept us plenty warm.
At one point we disembarked on the narrow beach that separates the pond from the ocean. With the serene pond on one side and the turbulent waters of the Atlantic on the other, all lit by the ethereal glow of daylight in disguise, our intrepid band was energized and moved.
While the trip was a first for us, it will not be the last. I want to go back to see what was beyond the fog! We were also inspired to explore other unfamiliar Island locales. I doubt we will ever exhaust the possibilities of our vacation home.
Posted by Rick Conti on Sun, May 16, 2010
Probably one of the least romanticized aspects of Martha’s Vineyard is the
Steamship Authority's ferry service. It's old. It's stodgy. It's even smelly on occasion. People may make disparaging comments about the boats or the service or the crowds, but I'll have none of it. Think of me what you will, but I like the ferry. It's the people's option.
The best part about taking the ferry is the separation that it provides from the land-locked life. When I'm riding on the ferry, traversing Vineyard Sound to the Island, I can feel the anxiety and stress falling from me as if an oversized knapsack has been loosed from my back after a long, arduous hike. As I anticipate a stay on the Island, my shoulders seem to rise an inch or two from the sheer relief of burdens picked up on the mainland. I need that time of adjustment.
If there were a bridge or tunnel to the Vineyard, as some souvenir car stickers would have you believe, I would still take the boat. I like the physical and emotional transition that it affords. That's why, when taking the car on the ferry, it's best to get out and spend the crossing time topside. Getting into the car and not getting out until you are on the Island has the same effect as driving over a bridge. You just don't get the break you need to start a real vacation.
Today there are two primary steamships making the voyage from Woods Hole, my
preferred point of departure: the three-year-old “M/V Island Home” and the venerable (by comparison) “M/V Martha's Vineyard”. (There is also a set of freighter ships, but I prefer to stay with the passenger vessels. Even I have my limits!) My preference is for the bi-directional newer ship. It doesn't need to turn around upon MV arrival as the older boat does. Thus, I can set my feet on Island soil that much sooner.
The Steamship is reliable and consistent. It runs year round and only the harshest of weather keeps it from its appointed rounds. Its persistence accounts for some exciting happenings. I recall a particularly rough crossing, during which one courageous soul insisted on sitting on the outside deck of the ferry. As he sat alone (no one else was foolhardy enough to venture outside on this passage) reading his newspaper, a rogue wave came over the front of the ship, engulfing him in bone-chilling salt water. He came back inside, humbled, wiser, and soaked to the marrow.
I don't mean to disparage the obvious benefits of the alternative means of transport. The “
Island Queen”, a passenger-only vessel that takes its patrons from Falmouth Harbor to Oak Bluffs Harbor, is fast and convenient, with far less hectic departures and arrivals. From the other side of Falmouth Harbor, the quaint “
Pied Piper” will drop you off right in downtown Edgartown. (How cool is that?) I won't touch on the relative merits of the air routes to the Vineyard. That discussion is left for the more affluent among us.
All things considered, however, I prefer the pace, tradition, and yes, the price of the Steamship Authority option. Truth be told, anything that gets me to the Vineyard is appreciated! In this case, because of the delights of the destination, getting there is not nearly half the fun!
Posted by Rick Conti on Fri, Apr 02, 2010
Chocolate. The mere word conjures up all manner of sensations: images, scents - even moods. But most of all tastes. It is part of our diet and part of our culture. Consider the phrases that have entered the vox populi:
When the going gets tough, the tough get chocolate.
Chocolate: It's not just for breakfast anymore.
Life is like a box of chocolates. You never know what you're going to get.
All I really need is love, but a little chocolate now and then doesn't hurt!
It's bad for your waistline but a good source of anti-oxidants. And it tastes like heaven. We rationalize and take the oh-so-good with the bad.
So what does all this have to do with Martha's Vineyard? Well, MV is a chocolate lover's dream, with several places to go to meet one's Recommended Daily Allowance of Brown Gold. (Sorry, but the white stuff simply isn't chocolate.) Below, find a brief compendium of chocolate oriented destinations:
In Edgartown, the Ice Cream and Candy Bazaar reigns, partly for its selection of yummy chocolate treats but also for its location: right on the harbor. (See my post from July for a paean to that place.) Added bonuses are the ice cream and fun penny candy... none of which costs a penny. This is the Vineyard, after all!
Oak Bluffs holds a treasure in Ben & Bill's Chocolate Emporium. One of four locations – the others being Falmouth, Northampton, MA and Bar Harbor – this place has a huge variety of chocolate and chocolate-covered delights, from truffles to turtles. My daughter swears by the chocolate-covered gummy bears. I'll take her word for it since I am not gummiverous. Ice cream is offered at the Circuit Avenue location as well. That alone is worth the trip.
Finally, there's Chilmark Chocolates. As the name would suggest, this is a chocolate store. No ice cream, no drinks, no penny candy, no web site, no scenic seating area, no room to move. This place is all about the chocolate. Period. But it doesn't need anything else. The delicacies are all hand made or hand-dipped and they are all delicious.
One thing I love about Chilmark Chocolates is that they know we need them more than they need us. They make that clear through a variety of means: First of all, they are never open. OK, that's an exaggeration, but not much of one. They are only open a few days a week, a few hours a day. And they invariably close during the busiest week of the summer! (A side effect of the limited availability is the often unlimited lines.) Second, their location up island is relatively remote compared to the likes of Circuit Ave., Upper Main Street, or Five Corners. Finally, the store is really just a short corridor. Walk in one side and out the other. There is nowhere else to go.
But there is nowhere else you need to go, because along that corridor is a glass enclosed display of the finest chocolate treats you are likely to find anywhere. And they are surprisingly reasonably priced.
Finally, know that when you patronize Chilmark Chocolates, you are supporting a business that was created to (and still does) employ disabled workers. What could be better than buying and eating the world's best chocolate as your good deed for the day?
Where do you get your chocolate fix?
Photo by sister72
Posted by Rick Conti on Wed, Mar 10, 2010
Vacationing on Martha's Vineyard is my favorite way to get away from it all. Sometimes, however, “it all” comes to haunt in a way that undermines any such attempt. That has been the case since January 12, 2010.
The Vineyard is one of the most beautiful, luxurious, and comfortable vacation spots in the world.
At the other end of the affluence spectrum is the nation of Haiti, which occupies the western third of the island of Hispaniola. Before January 12th, Haiti was already the poorest nation in the Western Hemisphere. Since the earthquake of that date, its usual misery has increased beyond measure.
Take a look at some statistics: The average Haitian survives on about one dollar a day. In other words, the average Haitian would have to work a week to buy an ice cream at Mad Martha's. They would have to work a year to afford one night's stay at an upscale hotel. However, since unemployment there is about 70-80%, the point is moot for most. About 1 in 10 Haitian children will not reach their 5th birthday. Most Haitians can't read or write and only about 50% have sustained access to clean water. (Please note that these dreadful figures pre-date the earthquake, so things have only gotten worse.)
It's hard to reconcile the differences between the two places, one so idyllic, the other so afflicted.
Perhaps it's not possible to reconcile them, but it is always possible to work towards equity. The people of Martha's Vineyard have reached out. Try Googling “martha's vineyard haiti” to find several such initiatives. You only have to look as far as the back door of the Colonial Inn to find Bluefish Coastal Boutique where they are donating 30% of all online sales until the end of April to Red Cross Haiti relief.
As a visitor to and supporter of Haiti for the past ten years, these efforts hearten me, even as the events there cause me distress. In 2000, I traveled to Haiti for the first time. What I saw changed my life forever in countless ways. Since then, I have been back on several occasions, most recently this past November. There are many people there that I love and want to help in any way I can. To make that happen, I serve on the board of a non-profit organization, Servants for Haiti, that supports a school and an orphanage in the earthquake ravaged capital of Port-au-Prince.
There can only be two viable and consistent responses to this disparity: gratitude and generosity.
Gratitude for all that we have been blessed with, and the generous sharing of those blessings with our destitute neighbors.
The first is easy and can (and should) be practiced constantly. Next time you feel compelled to complain about slow service at an island eatery, consider my good friend Jonas, who does not know when he will eat next.
If you want to whine about waiting in traffic at Five Corners, think of David Andre who suffers migraines so excruciating that they cause him to pass out, but whose family cannot afford medical treatment. I could go on and on (and on...) but you get the point.
The generosity response is almost as easy. Many organizations exist to help those less fortunate. The Red Cross, Partners in Health, and World Vision are among the most effective in the world at helping the poor and all are active in Haiti relief work. (I would also commend to you the organization I serve. Learn more about us at www.servantsforhaiti.org
.)
Consider all that you have been given and respond appropriately. Reach out to our Haitian friends and neighbors. Donate your time and your money and encourage others to do the same. A just world is worth sacrificing for.
UPDATE: Since Rick submitted this post for us he has been involved in organising a fundraiser for Servants of Haiti - one of the prizes is a weekend at the Edgartown Residence Club which Rick and his family are kindly donating. 2 of Rick'sadult children have recently returned from volunteering in the aftermath of the earthquake so please help them help others by getting involved in this or any of the other great fundraising efforts that many people are involved in both on Martha's Vineyard and all over the world.
Posted by Rick Conti on Thu, Oct 08, 2009
No matter how much we love the Vineyard, there are times when it becomes so hectic that we need a break from the break we took here. Crowds, heat, and noise conspire to drive us into sensory overload thus unraveling our reasons for coming here in the first place. Edgartown, as much as I love it, is as prone to this phenomenon as any town on the Island. (Though Five Corners at unloading time still sets the standard for MV insanity.)
While genuine isolation can be found up-island, on Chappy, and a few other places even during high season, there are times when I don’t want to travel that far to escape the hustle, bustle and tussle. Fortunately, I know of the perfect outdoor oasis. I share it here at the risk of exposing my secret. (Let’s keep it to ourselves, shall we?)
Sequestered nicely between North Water Street, Summer Street, Winter Street and MainStreet, there is a block of quiet, calm and cool to be found right in the center of otherwise frantic Edgartown. Behind the shops on those streets, a grassy respite awaits the overheated, overindulged tourist.
It’s just a small park with the usual accoutrements: grass, trees, benches and brick walkways. Somehow, though, even on the steamiest of days, the shading oak trees keep this park cool and the surrounding buildings filter out the tumult of the streets.
This space has everything you’d need for a picnic… including ants. (Nothing is perfect.) My tastes, however, lean toward the decidedly more quiescent. An ice cream cone or bag of “penny” candy is the perfect repast for me while I lounge in the shade.
Birds sing in the trees, oblivious to the craziness just a few flaps of the wing away. A passing squirrel may shyly scamper by seeking his own shelter. There are no bikes to dodge or mopeds to lag behind. Just an occasional pedestrian passing through. There are no souvenirs, no food for sale – nothing to spend money on at all. In other words, it has everything I need for a fleeting vacation from my vacation.
I never linger too long in this park. Somehow, that would spoil the effect for me. I simply sit or lie on the lawn, cool down, recharge, then head out to do battle once more with the madding throng.
I require an extra long break if I’m coming from Five Corners, though.
Image by Michael Wilson.
Posted by Rick Conti on Mon, Sep 14, 2009
One of the things I love about Martha’s Vineyard is the lack of chain stores and 
especially the dreaded “big box” shops. Even better, the island is populated with little box stores. My favorites as a class are the general stores. They are definitely throwbacks to a bygone era. Most Americans know them only from period TV shows and movies. People on the Vineyard are blessed to know them first hand. Here are my three favorites:
Though it doesn’t have “general” in its name, Chilmark Store has all the essential elements to deserve that appellation. First of all, it’s at the heart of the community, barely a whelk shell’s throw from Beetlebung corner, the library and the community center. (Just down the road from Chilmark Chocolates too, but that gets its own blog entry.) It’s also a community billboard. Every local event and business seems to be advertised via poster on the walls of the building.
Chilmark Store is all about the food. Yes, there is a nominal selection of groceries and other sundries, but the pizza and sub counter is where the traffic is. (It’s also in the parking lot, but that’s another story.) Pick up a pizza or sub and settle on one of the rocking chairs on the porch. You can also take your slice of pizza a short drive to Menemsha beach to watch the sunset. Either way, you’ll fully comprehend the meaning of the Italian motto posted on the store’s porch: “Il dolce momento”, the sweet moment.
On the way to South Beach? You’ll be passing another primo emporium, Katama General Store. The operative word for this place is “eclectic”. What they lack in quantity of selection, they make up for in variety. Where else would you find frozen Eggo waffles in the same freezer as gelato and ketchup within an arm’s reach of organic local goods? The most common products are the seemingly countless items emblazoned with the store’s ubiquitous crab logo.
After procuring all of your beach needs – chairs, umbrellas, and toys – from the shop’s ample selection, grab a drink and a snack and settle into one of the tables in the colorful flower garden (sunflowers, bachelor buttons, day lilies, and many more) out front. When you finally make it to the beach, you’ll know you’ve made the most of your trip!
The granddaddy (or more accurately, great great granddaddy) of them all, however, is also the best of the bunch in this writer’s humble opinion. Alley’s General Store in West Tisbury is so classic that it’s owned by the MV Preservation Trust. At over a century and a half and still going strong, it’s not only the oldest retail establishment on the island, it’s quite possibly the coolest. They proclaim themselves as “dealers in almost everything.” My only quibble with that slogan is that I’m not convinced about the “almost” part.
Part hardware store, part post office, part tourist trap (not to mention grocery store, garden center, beach supply store, farm stand, news stand and a few other stands), Alley’s may not have everything, but it has everything you need and then some. I’m talking mini-Ben and Jerry’s, imported Italian pasta, local artist CD’s, 3-D anatomic pig (or for the bovine-inclined, cow) puzzles… You get the idea. They have a lot more than you need. The only thing Alley’s is short on is prepared food. Not to worry. You’ll find Garcia’s Bakery and Deli at “Back Alley’s”, the building at the rear of the parking lot.
Alley’s also has the most important feature for a general store: a front porch with seating, including a porch swing! This place is more than a store, it’s a destination – one that’s worth the trip up-island.
Image of Alley’s General Store courtesty of MVOL.com
Posted by Rick Conti on Mon, Aug 31, 2009
Among the many attractions of Martha’s Vineyard are the bike paths that wind all over the eastern half of the island. I love the narrow meandering routes they take, whether through woods or along the seashore. Roads are OK for biking for some, but I admit to being a little wary ever since I got clipped by a Hoosier minivan many years ago. I was riding on the West Tisbury Road before the bike path was extended into Edgartown. It was especially unnerving because I had my daughter perched in a child seat on the back of my bike. Maybe you can understand my preference for the bike paths.
There are so many paths and they can take you to lots of places: beaches, lakes, restaurants, town centers, shops, parks, even an airport or two. They can also transport you to less tangible destinations. Here are a few that appeal to my sensibilities…
Fitness is important to many of us. The bike paths are a direct route to that goal. A bike ride is a great non-impact aerobic workout. That doesn’t mean you have to shell out two grand for a titanium bike and enshroud yourself in spandex. I’m passed by those guys (and women) all the time, but I’m getting all the workout I need in my T-shirt and low-end Trek hybrid.
I’ve got nothing against the Lance Armstrong wannabe’s, but I like to set a more leisurely pace. I want to actually see the sights on the path. That’s the second destination I head for. There is real beauty to be seen on the journey. Trees, flowers, wildlife, water, and all the other things that make the Vineyard special. Speed has its rewards, but how can you smell the roses when you can’t even see them? G. K. Chesterton said, “The world will never starve for want of wonders; but only for want of wonder.” It’s a wonder why anyone would miss the wonders of Martha’s Vineyard by turning them into a blur.
Finally, the bike path brings me to a place that I enjoy all too infrequently in today’s world: community. There is a fellowship on the bike path that hearkens back to a previous era. Strangers actually greet one another. It may be a “Good morning” or just a wave or nod of the head, but it feels like neighborhood to me and I like it.
So, strap on that helmet and start pedaling. I’ll see you on the bike path!
Postscript: One final worthy destination for your bike trip: a world free of Multiple Sclerosis. The first weekend of May each year, the Island hosts “Ride the Vineyard”, the kickoff event for the MS Bike trip season. The next one is May 1, 2010. You can support this cause by riding or donating. It’s a great ride with an unbeatable destination! More information can be found at the MS Society’s web site for bike events.
Editor’s Note: New this year, you can also cycle for a good cause in October. The 2009 Cycle Martha’s Vineyard ride will be held on October 17. The 50K or 100K bike ride will benefit the Rotary Club of Martha’s Vineyard and the Martha’s Vineyard Big Brothers/Big Sisters program.
Image courtesy of Dainis Matisons
Posted by Rick Conti on Thu, Aug 06, 2009
South Beach is anything but cool. It’s crowded, cacophonous and constantly in motion. To be really cool, you’ve gotta be seen at Lucy Vincent, Wasque, Moshup or one of the other more exclusive spots. But exclusivity is the problem for me. I don’t want to have to be a resident, I don’t want to have to take a boat (ferry) to the beach and I sure as shootin’ don’t want to pay!
Beaches should be a populist affair. Liberty and justice, everyone created equal, power to the people, all for one and one for all and all that. South Beach fits that bill to a capital “T”. The ocean there is no respecter of persons. The waves at Katama (a.k.a. South Beach) will slap you around mercilessly, be you pauper or prince, president or peon. When it dunks you under, it doesn’t ask first if you’re a year-rounder, a Yankee fan or a Cabot.
Just a few miles from downtown Edgartown, there is no fee for parking, although you might have to fight for your vehicle’s place in the sun. The bike path leads right up to the sand. Life guards in classic bright red. Kites in the sky chasing sight-seeing biplanes and gliders. Entire families embroiled in full contact Frisbee battles. Every shape, size and color of sun-bather. This is the real deal!
Yet, South Beach does have its touches of gentility as well. The houses overlooking the sea from the far side of Atlantic Drive are nothing short of awe-inspiring. And the porta-potties are really first rate. These are not your run-of-the-mill construction site denizens. These beauties set the standard for functionality and cleanliness. (OK, maybe I’ve gone too far with that one.)
Actually, it’s the surf that does it for me. South Beach has the most awesome surf (or “waves of the sea” as my kids called them when they were little). I don’t even have to get in it. (Sometimes, I prefer not to!) I just have to watch it, breakers eternally rushing in then sliding back into their own oncoming successors. No, I just have to hear it. The crashing surf is a natural symphony to my ears, with its own fascinatin’ rhythm and melody. It’s truly a rhapsody in blue, green and many other hues as well.
So there you have it. Take your Lambert’s Cove and your wildlife refuges. The life at Katama is wild enough for me! Give me liberty or give me… Well, give me South Beach and I’ll be happy.
Image courtesy of Trustees of Reservations
Posted by Rick Conti on Thu, Jul 23, 2009
The ocean is a marvelous place. It is literally a place of marvels. People travel from deep in the interior sections of a continent just to spend a few days in its proximity. As they near it, their hearts – if not their voices – resonate with that of William Clark who cried at his first sight of the Pacific, “Ocean in view! O! The joy!” We are willing to spend a massive premium for the privilege of an ocean vista, disregarding the dangers it poses.
It only takes a few minutes at the beach to realize that there is more to it than sand and water. Peter Kreeft, prolific author and professor of philosophy at Boston College, has caught this vision. He says that by God’s design, “the ocean is a perfect toy: always there, always willing to play with you, just dangerous enough to be exciting, never needing replacement, unbreakable, never boring, and you don’t even have to put it away when you’re finished playing with it. Watch how little kids treat it; they know what it’s for.”
Indeed, no one seems to appreciate the beach like a child. The little girl has no need of a “beach book” or a radio to pass the time. Her younger brother isn’t concerned with making a fashion statement or getting the perfect tan. The sand, shells, waves, sun, and breeze all provide more than enough distraction for the most innocent among us. And if they have the proper tools, who knows what imaginative creations they may construct in the sand?
My preferred portion of coastline on the Vineyard, in spite of its often overbearing crowds, is South Beach. The power of the surf there is humbling, more than once leaving me tumbling in its foamy aftermath. The shoreline goes on almost to the vanishing point in either direction. One can stroll its shifting sands in peace for hours. (In the absence of the breach, a stroll to Chappy is even a possibility, if a stretch physically.)
You never know what wonder you will encounter along that stretch of shoreline. There is a seemingly endless variety of birds to watch – some skittering in the shallow surf, some repeatedly diving headlong into the waves foraging for a meal. While lacking an abundance of shells, there are yet some prizes to be found for the diligent. Patience and a keen eye may also reward you with a rare seal or dolphin sighting.
Those who lug their laptops, cell phones and iPods to the beach will have their reward, I suppose. I prefer to follow the lead of the little ones. When it comes to the ocean, they know the magic it holds better than I do.